How To Make An Animted Logo, the easy way

Things you will need:
QUOTE
1. Photoshop or Paintshop (any versions)
2. Xara3D 5.xx
3. Jasc animation shop 3.xx
4. DUH!! A pic you want as a logo LOL

Things you MIGHT need:
1. a computer
2. Internet connection
3. consciousness
4. corn on the cob

Here they are for your convinience:
Adobe Photoshop CS v8.0 thanx to TheCollector
http://www.shareordie.com/index.php?showto...85&hl=Photoshop

Jasc Paint Shop Pro 9.0 Retail thanx to arclite
http://www.shareordie.com/index.php?showto...&hl=Jasc&st=100

Xara3D 5.02 thanx to Zabref
http://www.shareordie.com/index.php?showtopic=6512&hl=XARA

Jasc Animation Shop 3.11 thanx to sev7en
http://www.shareordie.com/index.php?showtopic=34928&hl=


Steps:
1. Using your photo editor fix/touch up you pic/logo to your liking….too easy(example bellow)
user posted image

2. Save it some where easy to find, for example “C:\pictures” or “C:\Windows\thecenterofhell\system\system32\system64\system128\???” although I don’t recommend the second one.

3.Open Xara3D 5.xx, press “Alt+T” or click on the “T” button on the LEFT PANEL erase all of the text in the window that pops up then press ok.
user posted image
user posted image

4. Press “Alt+U” or click on the yellow “U” surrounded in gray on the LEFT PANEL, check the “button” box and select a desire button type and leave this option window open you will need it again.
user posted image

5. Press the “At+X” or click the black “X” on the LEFT PANEL, click “load texture” in the pop up window, find the picture you made/adjusted and highlight it then click open or just double-click it. Use the “size, x, y, angle” sliders to adjust the picture or “texture” and in the “button options” windows use the “stretch, corners”(corners, only if using this option you can adjust) to adjust the button size.
user posted image

6. Press “Alt+A” or click the black “A” on the LEFT PANEL with what looks like to me is a half-halo with an arrow tip!? Anyway, here is a quick rundown on what the options here do: (BY THE WAY TO ACTIVATE OR “PREVIEW ANIMATION” PRESS “Ctrl+spacebar”).
user posted image


A. Frames per cycle: This is the number of frames for each complete cycle through the animation sequence. The greater the number of frames the smoother the animation. The drawback is that the file is bigger - this is a big disadvantage for web graphics. You may need to try different values to get the best results.
B. Frames per second: The animation speed. Slow speeds can give jerky movement. High speeds can also give jerky movement as the program displaying the animation may not be able to keep up. Again you may need to try different values.
C. Pause: This pauses the first frame before continuing the rest of the animation. Type in a value in centiseconds (1/100ths of a second) - a 2 second pause is 200 cs. Note that this applies only to the first frame; use Frames per cycle and Frames per second to control the overall speed of the animation.
D. Loop Value: Unchecked is Infinite, Any other value see for yourself. Lmao
E. Loop: This lets you specify how many times the animation should repeat itself. Note that some browsers take any value other than 1 to mean 'loop forever'. Therefore, your animation either plays once or forever.
F. Style: This controls the type of animation:
Rotate 1 rotates all the text as one; Rotate 2 rotates each character. (Buttons have a single Rotate option.) Rotate text/Rotate lights - select whether you want the text to rotate or the lights or both. You cannot rotate the shadow as this would create very large files. Direction - selects the direction of rotation.

Swing options: Swing 1 swings all the text as one; Swing 2 swings each character. (Buttons have a single Swing option.) Angle - how much you want the heading to swing.

Pulsate options: Pulsate 1 pulsates all the text as one; Pulsate 2 pulsates each character. (Buttons have a single Pulsate option.) Minimum text size - how far back to pulsate the text. Shrink+Grow & Grow+Shrink - only have an effect if you Pause the animation. These options select the starting point for the animation (maximum or minimum.)

Fade options: Fade in - the heading emerges from the background color. Fade out - the heading merges into the background color. SO AFTER PICKING ONE………………..


7. On the top left go to FILE>>>EXPORT ANIMATION or press “Ctrl+Shift+X” and save in desired location.
user posted image

8. When the next window pops up (Export as animated gif save location then options): Experiment with each one to get it right, but remember the SoD rules about Siggys and Avatars.
user posted image
user posted image


Because Animated GIFs can be quite large, you may find that a 16 or 32 color, optimized palette per frame, produces the best results for the smallest file size. However you might need to experiment.
Dithering always makes GIFs look better, but also makes them larger. When outputting at 256 colors you may find that there is no need to turn dithering on.
Current Window Size lets you export just the area surrounding the text (Crop on) or the entire window area (Crop off.)
User Defined lets you specify the dimensions of the bitmap.

How to Hide in the (Network) Neighborhood

Don't want your XP computer to show up in the network browse list (Network Neighborhood/My Network Places) to other users on your network? One way to accomplish that is to disable file sharing. To do this, click Start, right click My Network Places and select Properties. Right click your local area connection and click Properties. Uncheck the box that says File and Printer Sharing for Microsoft Networks. Click OK.

But what if you want to be able to share folders with some users; you just don't want everyone on the network to see your computer's shares? There's a way:

Click Start and select Run.
In the Run box, type net config server /hidden:yes
Click OK.
Now others who know the UNC path (\\computer name\share name) can connect to your computer's shares from the Run box, but it won't show up in the network browse list.

How to Boot XP Faster?

First of all, this tweak only apply to those who only have one HDD on their primary IDE channel (nothing else on device 0 or 1) and a CD-ROM and/or DVD-ROM on the secondary IDE channel. Each time you boot Windows XP, there's an updated file called NTOSBOOT-*.pf who appears in your prefetch directory (%SystemRoot%Prefetch) and there's no need to erease any other files as the new prefetch option in XP really improves loading time of installed programs. We only want WindowsXP to boot faster and not decrease its performance. Thanks to Rod Cahoon (for the prefetch automation process...with a minor change of mine) and Zeb for the IDE Channel tweak as those two tricks, coupled together with a little modification, result in an EXTREMELY fast bootup:

1. Open notepad.exe, type "del c:windowsprefetch tosboot-*.* /q" (without the quotes) & save as "ntosboot.bat" in c:
2. From the Start menu, select "Run..." & type "gpedit.msc".
3. Double click "Windows Settings" under "Computer Configuration" and double click again on "Shutdown" in the right window.
4. In the new window, click "add", "Browse", locate your "ntosboot.bat" file & click "Open".
5. Click "OK", "Apply" & "OK" once again to exit.
6. From the Start menu, select "Run..." & type "devmgmt.msc".
7. Double click on "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers"
8. Right click on "Primary IDE Channel" and select "Properties".
9. Select the "Advanced Settings" tab then on the device 0 or 1 that doesn't have 'device type' greyed out select 'none' instead of 'autodetect' & click "OK".
10. Right click on "Secondary IDE channel", select "Properties" and repeat step 9.
11. Reboot your computer.

WindowsXP should now boot REALLY faster.

How To Bill All Of your Fone Calls To Some Poor, Unsuspecting Son Of A Bitch

So there I was stranded in Miami with a broken red box in one hand and an
outdated list of calling card numbers in the other hand. Just as I was about
ready to jump to my death in the ocean because I couldn't call my friends, I
got an idea. Third-party bill my calls to random names in the phone book!

Of course, I started out using this method on pay phones which is a pain in
the ass because the operator wants to call up the number you're billing to
and make sure it's okay with them first. So here's your detailed instructions
for simplified third-party billing. Oh, and by the way, in no way am I claiming
to be the elite guy who "discovered" third party. I mean, come on, third party
billing's been around forever and some guy said I shouldn't take credit for
something that's been done forever. I'm just trying to explain how easy it is.
Sheesh, some people! Cactus.

Finding A Number To Use:
-----------------------
First of all, if you're going to be calling from home, it's best to charge
the calls to a different area code than your own. Sure, a local number will
work but when the people get their phone bill and see a local number on it,
they'll most likely call it to find out what it is. When they see a long
distance number they think "Goodness gracious! If I call that number my
phone bill will even be higher." Even if they do call you, you can just play
ignorant and if they're far away they probably won't come looking for you.

Pick a city, any city. The city should be far away in another state. Now dial
local information and ask for the area code to your city. Let's say you
picked Waverly, Iowa. The area code is 319. Now dial 1-319-555-1212 to call
Waverly Directory Assisstance. The charge for this call should only be about
sixty cents.

Now think of a very common last name like Smith, Lawrence, Conner, Mitchell,
Shlappenheimerwinthrop, etc. You get the idea.

OPER: Directory Assisstance, Betty. What city, please?
YOU: Waverly.
OPER: Go ahead.
YOU: I need the number of a last name Conner.
OPER: (type, type, type) Okay I have two Conners listed. A Bob and an
initial H.
YOU: Bob, yeah that's it. Definately Bob. Bob it is. Gimmie Bob. Yeah, Bob.
OPER: The number is 452-0357.

So that's the number you'll bill to. 319-452-0357. Of course if you're
planning to do this extensively you'll need many more numbers to pick from.
That's when you call up the phone company and ask for a phone book to be
delivered to you so you'll have a whole list of numbers to choose from. A
normal book will cost about $7.00 or so. If you know how to do it right, it
won't cost you anything but I won't get into that. The phone book will pay
for itself after about 3 or 4 long distance calls.

Exchange List:
-------------
If you don't want to go through all the trouble of doing the above, here's a
list of exchanges you can pick from. I'm including the area code and prefix.
You just make up four numbers after that at random.

618-254-xxxx 409-744-xxxx 213-962-xxxx 505-398-xxxx
318-981-xxxx 314-231-xxxx 513-741-xxxx 503-255-xxxx
803-254-xxxx 319-452-xxxx 618-377-xxxx 512-441-xxxx


Making The Call:
---------------
Pretty easy. Dial 0-AREA CODE-NUMBER. You'll hear a cool Bell tone and the
automated voice will ask you to enter your card number. Press "0" to skip
that part. Recently, they came out with automated third number billing so you
don't have to deal with a live operator anymore. Isn't technology great?! The
automated voice will ask you to "say" how you want to bill your call. Just
say, "third number" and it'll ask you to touch tone in the number you want to
charge it to. Dial 319-452-0357 and presto, your call is completed.

If you get a live operator instead say, "I'd like to charge this to my home
telephone in Waverly, Iowa, the Turnip capitol of the world." and follow the
same proceedure.

Some of the more intelligent people (about 2%) put a third-number block on
their line. If this happens the recording will say, "This call cannot be
billed to this number." Solution? Hang up, redial the number and try billing
it to a different number or just transpose a couple of the numbers you just
tried.

If you don't have AT&T as your long distance carrier, dial 10288-0-NUMBER.

Calling From A Pay Phone:
------------------------
As I mentioned before, doing it from a pay phone is a little harder but still
works. The operator will want to call the person you're billing to a verify
with them that it's okay to bill it there.

The trick is to open the phone book at the pay phone and pick a number at
random. Look for an old person's name because they're the most gullible but
anyone will do. Let's say you picked Christian Slater 213-962-7142. Dial your
number as 0-AREA CODE-NUMBER and hit "0" after the tone.

OPER: AT&T, How may I help you?
YOU: I want to charge this to my home phone.
OPER: Will someone be there to accept the charges?
YOU: Who wants to know?
OPER: Me.
YOU: Okay, then, tough guy.
OPER: What is your name?
YOU: Christian Slater, you may have heard of me.
OPER: (dials 213-962-7142. A lady answers the phone. Probably Slater's wife.)
LADY: Hello?
OPER: Hello, this is AT&T. Christian is making a call from a public phone and
wishes to bill the call to you. Will you accept the charges?
LADY: Oh, yeah, okay. I'll accept.

And the operator thanks you and puts your call through. As long as you don't
get any of the following responses you should be okay:

"Huh? But I'M Christian Slater."
"Calling from a pay phone?? But he's right here with me watching Cheers!?"
"Christian died last week."
"No Hablo Engles??"

A Few Extra Notes:
-----------------
Sometimes if the no one is home at the number you're trying to bill to, you
can convince the operator that it's really you're number if you know what the
answering machine message is going to say and if you can do an impression of
their voice on the machine. Even a bad impression will sometimes work.

When doing this from home, try not to use the same number more than two or
three times so the owner of the number will be less likely to investigate.

I've experienced third-party billing from both sides. Someone charged forty
dollars worth of calls to my dad's phone and the operators were very
unhelpful and unfriendly. They refused to investigate even though it was
comming from a residential line and it took two months to get the charges
removed. This was back in 1990 but I've been doing this for a few years now
and people don't seem to care too much at a few calls totaling to under ten
bucks. I've actually called the people I used and asked them about it and they
almost always blow it off as a "minor nusience."

AT&T is completely automated from your home and the best to use. U.S.Sprint
is the second best because they're not automated but they also don't call and
verify. M.C.I. sucks because they're losers who verify no matter what so don't
use them. To choose your company, before you dial the number dial 10288 for
AT&T or 10333 for U.S. Sprint.

International calls will be verified no matter what from pay phone or home.
Hope this file benefits everyone who reads it. It'll sure cut your long
distance bill down a lot.

May 13, 1995 Update:
-------------------
Well, it seems that AT&T are finally waking up to this problem of third party
billing...On my local phone bill I was backbilled for $175 worth of third
party calls. The kicker part is that I called the phone company and complained
that there were all these extra charges on my bill that I know nothing about
and they were more than happy to take the charges off. A few weeks later, I
got a letter from AT&T concerning some more charges...

Dear Customer,
We are sending you this letter to advise you of the long distance
calls we have billed your account. The amount is $53.70, excluding
taxes. These long distance calls have been investigated by our
Message Analysis Center and were determined to be your responsibility.
A list of these calls will appear on a future bill.
If you would like to discuss this matter, please contact our office
toll-free at 1-800-522-2157, ext. 4737. Our ofice hours are Moday
through Friday between the hours of 8 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Eastern
Standard Time.

Sincerely,
Dawn Brooks
Investigator

I've yet to hear anything more about this but I plan to just ignore the extra
charges on the bill and complain to the phone company and hopefully I won't
have to pay. If I do, oh well, it's only fifty bucks.

Another recent happening is that two people I know have been back billed.
Martini from Illinois was charged $75 on her bill. "I don't understand what
this third number means, sir, I only have two lines!" Also, an idiot in Oregon
was back billed because he had the itelligence to bill to the exact same
number every single time. Worse yet, the number was in Canada and it was a
non-working number and the last four digits were 1234. What a cool guy!

Operator Diverting:
------------------
A new safe way to get around being back billed is to operator divert before
you get AT&T. It's a pain in the ass and takes a little longer, but it works
if you really need to call from home and don't have any other way.

Dial "0" and ask that operator to dial 1-800-225-5288 for you. (AT&T) Tell the
AT&T operator that you want to place a 3rd party billed call. She'll ask what
number you're calling from and you give her the number of somebody that you
don't like so it'll come back on them and not you. Whatever you do, don't give
her your real phone number.

Common Hard Drive Problems

If you’re like most people, you have either already ran out of space on your hard drive, or you are soon to do so. And you’ll probably go out and get a new hard drive, either new or used. The new ones usually come with software that set the drive up for you, by partitioning and formatting it. The used ones usually don’t. That’s where the trouble starts.
The most common problem I get from people trying to set up their hard drive is: "My (Larger than 2GB) Drive is only showing 2GB." The problem for that is usually in the Operating System (OS for short). The first version of Windows 95, for example, uses a file system called FAT16. That file system limits the size of the hard drive that is visible to the OS to only 2GB. So when you try to make that larger, it won’t let you. Plain and simple as that. You either must partition your hard drive into several 2GB partitions, or upgrade to an OS that with a file system that will support more than 2GB on a partition.
Another reason is because your BIOS has limits. 386 and 486 and lower end Pentium systems have limits of 512MB. Some Pentium Systems are limited to 2GB, and some of the newer ones, are limited to 8GB. It’s all in how the BIOS address the clusters on the Hard drive. It can be corrected with software, that comes with most new drives, like Western Digital’s EZ Drive, and Quantum’s Disk manager just to name a few. They take over where your real BIOS can’t perform, and then addresses the hard drive correctly

The next most common problem I get is "My hard drive says it’s 2GB, but Windows is saying it’s 1.86GB. Where’d that 90MB of space go?" Well, that problem is all in the numbers. The makers of the hard drive count 1MB as 1,000,000 Bytes. Windows counts 1MB as 1,048,576 bytes, a difference of 48,576 bytes. That adds up when you are talking 2,000MB. Let’s do the math.

Makers of hard drive says there are 2,000,000,000 bytes on the drive, so divide that by 1024 to get the number of kilobytes on the drive. Do that again to get the number of megabytes on the drive. Once more for the number of Gigabytes on the drive. You should get 1.862645149GB, or just 1.86GB, which is what Windows is thinking. That’s where your space went, in the numbers.

Another problem I am asked the answer for are a lot of FAT32 ones. "What is FAT32?" "Should I switch to FAT32?" "Can I switch to FAT32 and keep my data on the drive." "What OSs support FAT32."

Versions of Windows95 older than OSR2, as well as any DOS version, operate on a file system called FAT16 (or FAT12 in some cases). The existence of large hard drives has led to large partition sizes, which mean large cluster sizes and wasted space. Under FAT16, a smaller cluster size is better, because a small file takes up a whole cluster if there is even one byte in it; the leftover space is called "slack." FAT32 changed that.

FDISK in Windows 95 OSR2 or later will only allow you to put FAT32 on drives larger than 512MB. (Unless you use the /fprmt switch when starting FDISK) Inside FDISK, you must enable "large disk support," to choose FAT32. After exiting FDISK and rebooting, FORMAT the drive. NOTE that you must manually reboot after exiting FDISK, this is not automatic as in previous versions of FDISK. If you do not reboot between FDISKing and FORMATing, you will get strange-looking error messages.

As always, when you FDISK a drive, you will loose all data. But there are programs out there, like the one that comes with Windows 98, and Partition Magic, that will convert your drive to FAT32 without loosing your data.

With that, I hope that somehow, and someway, your Hard drive upgrades, and future problems, will be easily corrected.